Info & FAQ'S

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My first recommendation, and I cannot stress this enough, is to understand the Breeder may come to like you, but, loves the puppy.

If you are referencing outdated, throw away recommendations from a website that populated first in your search on how to find a reputable Breeder, prepare to be encounter opposition to many things you think you should be looking for or asking.

These sites that populate toward the top of the search are typically paid by Breeders, or just fluff-copied from another site to get you onto their site to view what they are selling, typically.

Reputable Breeders WILL allow you to visit and see a puppy, however, all of us besides the back yarders and commercial kennels have strict protocols any visitor must abide by as this is also our home. We will do video chat. We will have videos and have posted to social media.  Most of us will meet you in our yards, at a local establishment, and some have built little receiving buildings. Our safety is just as important as yours, we do not know you any more than you know us. So ask yourself would you be willing to ask me, a stranger, into your home?  If we have a Puppy Room or an established Puppy area, you are not welcome there. Why? Because we are terrified of contagion. Firstly, it is easier to disinfect my grass, hand you hand sanitizer and have puppies in a pen than disinfect a whole room.I like you, don't really know you and you are not my priority as what you may bring in on your shoes or clothing,  could potentially could completely wipe out not only my puppies, but, all my pets. Be a bit self aware and understand this is not personal, we do not bend, the majority of us, we love our dogs and that should absolutely be respected.

Every reputable breeder will ask for a deposit. For a few reasons. A deposit is intent to purchase. If we remove a puppy from advertising just on a promise and someone does not follow through we lose several weeks of advertising that puppy and could have placed it most likely several times over, or, we can arrive with the puppy at the scheduled location and you ghost us, and puppy and we humans have spent unnecessary time on this nonsense. If you are serious about the puppy you will reserve it. It is illogical to fear that over a few hundred bucks for the reservation deposit that we would rip someone off and besmirch our reputations. The goal is to find the puppy a quality home where they live for the rest of their lives. If you are afraid of getting scammed then Google the Breeder, and see how much of an online presence they have. We personally have a few pages regarding us in Google search. A scammer may have a website or social media and it will be very basic and very new. 

We are very friendly and like to chat. I am always suspect of Breeders that do not. I encourage you to ask questions about how long they have been in business, if they actually are in business (pass if they aren't a legitimate business), if they kennel, grooming recommendations, if they health test, if they are willing to keep for a few days to accomodate your vacation you already have scheduled or if you work during the week, etc., where the puppy spends it's time, how much time is spent with the puppies with humans, what their process is, if the process is a set routine or they are just flying by the seat of their pants, if they will send you pics and updates, that they vaccinate per age appropriateness. It is strange that the expectation of Breeders is typically that we should be rude or like used car salesmen. No and no. You should not have to feel the Breeder is doing you a favor by asking questions and expecting someone to be polite, and in return, we as Breeders should be able to expect the same in return. If you are entitled, rude, a diva or jerk, I personally will pass. No thank you. 

Yes, we all Google daily. We want info and it is at our fingertips.

But, first, you must be able to trust the source.

The majority of us know that googling something and getting accurate info is a crapshoot. In googling anything to do with puppies, dog breeding, breed specific info, ailments, etc. what you first see is most likely a breeder's page, or a "doodle expert" page. I will tell you that every single breeder you will encounter has BIG feelings on why they are right. Most that have been around a long time actually are. I will also tell you that taking advice from a doodle site, that is not a breeder, but, looks so knowledgable and purports facts is probably best to be scrolled by. These sites grab info from everywhere and anywhere and make their money through click throughs on links or products they are selling or are being paid by breeders to put them on the "Top 10 Best Breeder" list. And, will say anything to bolster that breeder that pays them to promote them.

If you see things like "you must meet the parents", "only go to Breeders that will let you in their home", etc. Please, ignore that. Most every Breeder is terrified of contagion. We live in a perpetual quarantine to keep our dogs and puppies exposed to disease and parasites. Added to that, there is a huge safety issue. If you were asked by a stranger "hey, I want to come hang out" you would nope it all the way. We do not know you or your true intention, most are exactly there for what they called for. But, if you Google "Dog Breeder robbed, murdered", you will find pages and pages and pages of Breeders being victimized. We are an easy target we have something of value that can be resold easily. We all will video chat and many of us will allow you to visit if you have been referred by a previous buyer. 

So, please, if you want accurate info, ask someone who's been around a while, and on Google seek out actual experts. It'll probably be on page 4 or 5 on your Google search, though. 

See Below regarding teacup, micro and mini and why we refuse to breed them.

Labradoodle and Goldendoodle Sizes:

Standard -  60 all the way up to 70+ lbs

Small Standard - 49-60 lbs

Medium (Moyen) - 30 lbs to 49 lbs

Mini - 15 lbs to 29 lbs 

Teacup, Micro and Petite - 6 lbs to 14 lbs

See below for info on minis, teacup and micro and why we don't breed them

Bernedoodles Sizes:

Standard- 69 lbs to 90+ lbs

Medium - 42 lbs to 68 lbs

Mini - 19 lbs -41 lbs

Teacup, Micro and Petite - 6 lbs to 19 lbs

Sheepadoodle Sizes

The Mini, Micro. Teacup and Toy Doodle. 

If you seek this please read this.

First...have you ever heard of a miniature Labrador Retriever, Bernese Mountain Dog, Golden Retriever or Olde English Sheepdog? No? So, how does one get a tiny doodle, then?

Every size downgrade requires YEARS of breeding down to get to a smaller size, safely. A lot is factored in, Dam Size, Stud size, Grandparent sizes, etc. 

A large Labrador, Bernese Mountain Dog, Golden Retriever, Sheep Dog bred to anything  half it's size is unconscionable and just flipping wrong.

The size difference from an 80 pound Labrador bred to a 15  pound miniature or, shudder a toy poodle or doodle  can cause health issues- dwarfism, heart, joint, twisted legs, and the worst, a brain too large for the skull. A Breeder can state that these progeny's parents have been health tested clear or the puppy has been health tested clear, BUT, some of these congenital and genetic issues ARE NOT tested for in a DNA health panel. On paper it appears that these puppies are healthy because the defects are not currently tested for in the health screening panel. 

If the puppy is referred to as mini, micro, toy or petite and has F1 or F1b attached to it, this has occurred from unethical breeding.

To create a Mini, the breeding is done very slowly, over generations. 

In order to breed down that small one must breed back to smaller dogs, a like generation, or typically a toy Poodle over, not 1 or 2 generations, but, over years to have been considered safely healthy . 

Added, after safely breeding down, you end up genetically with, drumroll please ... 87 - 100% POODLE!  Poodle Genetics are the only genetics left.

This topic hurts my head. I get truly worked up about it. 

The whole point in having a labradoodle for example it to have the intelligence and single non-shed coat of a poodle passed down joined with the loyalty, family oriented, sweetness of a labrador. 

The multi-generational or multi-gen mini, toy,  teacup and micro. 

Multi-gen is a breeding that will result in any generation below f3. What this is basically, is a HUGE AMOUNT of poodle being bred back into the doodle within those generations. So no, multi-gen is not fancier. It is not anything more than, again, a genetically extremely high percentage of poodle in that purported doodle. You are not getting anything "better", your getting a genetically showing poodle.

In Conclusion and Very Most Importantly............

By repeatedly breeding down for size you lose the labra, berne, sheepa, etc.,  and have genetically a poodle and therefore, NO LONGER HAVE A LABRADOODLE, BERNEDOODLE, SHEEPADOODLE, ETC., or any other doodle. Go buy yourself a mini or toy poodle, because, genetically that what you are getting by seeking mini, micro and toy doodles. We want to have the Labra or the Berne present in our doodles, it's that simple. Besides, we love big dogs!

The Last Puppy Available.

The most asked question:

"What's wrong with it?

To err on the side of brevity..................NOTHING!

In all aspects of everything to do with anything, someone or something has to be last. It's inevitable. There is an end to a line, last roll of TP and last available puppy.

Here's an example. We may have 8 puppies in a litter. 6 chocolate and 2 black, let's say. Everyone who was seeking a puppy at that time is looking for typically something different. A curly black puppy. A straight coat chocolate puppy. Five of those people see our ad or are referred to us. They choose their color and gender. One puppy is left. Maybe we had 6 girls and 1 boy - 4 black girls, 1 chocolate girl and 1 chocolate boy. But, everyone that contacts me for this litter is wanting girls. That's what they've been seeking. Those are all reserved, I have one chocolate boy. He looks identical to 1 of his sisters and I have to pick him up to tell him apart. Same look. Same genetics. Same everything except, instead of like the last puppy season when families wanted all boys, I have families wanting all girls this time. This little boy puppy ends up being last.

Not because he isn't as cute. Not because he has any issues. Not because he has any attribute that is not as attractive as his twin sister. 

When people seek puppies to add to their families, when they find us and if we have puppies is a lottery. What puppy we have when they contact us at what age the puppy is not predictable.

And, annndddd,  in several puppy seasons, we have predicted the puppy that will be chosen first and they have ended up being our last available puppy. We had predicted due to first chosen in past litters.  Every season it's different.  To entertrain ourselves, we still predict. But, because, in that season families were looking for female puppies and I had this one boy.  For no other reason except the timing of what I had and what was being sought were in conflict with one another, at that particular time. The next season we have the opposite and families are seeking boys not girls and we have one girl as last available puppy. All due to timing. Therefore our predictions are rarely accurate. We shall not be playing the horses.......

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So, you see a breeder advertising that you can receive a free puppy if you agree to be it's Guardian Home. Sounds awesome. Then comes the fine print. You physically get to have the puppy, care for the puppy, but, it does not actually belong to you. It belongs to the breeder in the case of a female puppy it matures and is bred, and whelps 3-5 litters. Then ownership is transferred to you.

My issues with guardian home breeders are long, here is a somewhat condensed take.

The car salesman spin is that if they kept them all they wouldn't get the attention they require. The real reasons are: they live in a metro area that doesn't allow more than a few dogs in their home, or they are skirting state breeding laws by in essence keeping those out of their home under the radar.

The guardian puppy then has to be bred typically at the breeders home. When it is whelping time the now mama dog is brought and left at the breeder's home and hopefully sequestered from the dogs it does not know to whelp in a foreign environment and raise her puppies until weaning. In a strange environment. I cannot wrap my head around how stressful this is for the guardian dog. 

Now, this breeder has not this one dog in a guardian home, but,  the average is 10 guardian homes with 10 guardian dogs or maybe 2 per home in some cases. The most guardian home situations I have seen a breeder conglomerate have is 60 guardian homes. That's an average of 110-120 litters of puppies a year. 

Welcome to the new puppy mill, the ethical puppy mill. The dogs are being cared for by their guardian families, the breeder is conveyor belting puppies, and although we are all in this as a business, and most of us hope to break even at least every year, this is next level. This is where the term "Greeders" absolutely applies. 

There are small programs that have only a few dogs in guardian homes and those homes are with people close to the breeder, ie family member or friend. There is constant involvement and this works out for them and is a wonderful arrangement for a small breeder living urbanly, these breeders do not seek outside of their circle and are in constant contact with the guardian dog because of this. 

Remember, this puppy does not belong to the Guardian, but, the Breeder. If at any time the Breeder deems that the contract has been breached within the 3-4 year period they can and do come and take that dog from the Guardian. This is not your dog. Until the end of the contractual obligation this pet you love can be taken from you without any legal recourse as you signed a contract. If you follow the contract after the 3 or 4 years then you receive ownership. 

My best advice is as always to ask questions. Knowledge really is power.

Scammers suck! We get several puppy families contacting us AFTER they have been scammed. Most of the time it is because they interacted solely through email or text. We have been contacted by families stating that someone pruporting to be us is trying to sell them a Shibu Inu or a Dachsund and thankfully became suspicious and contacted us.

YOU WILL NOT RESERVE A PUPPY UNTIL YOU SPEAK WITH ME ON THE PHONE. IT WILL NOT HAPPEN. SAVE US BOTH TIME AND ENERGY AND MY FINDING MY READING GLASSES TO READ YOUR MESSAGE BY JUST CALLING ME, AS I WILL CALL YOU. 

The scammers work both sides. As wary you are of being scammed, we are as well. They work the buyers for a quick buck and they work us by stealing our pictures and information to make themselves appear more legitimate. We had in one instance had our ads hijacked and the cost and effort to shut it down was immense. 

But, they were ridiculous little traps we fell into and had we not been so trusting and naive we would have seen coming a mile away.

How is the best way to spot one?

In a recent scam a breeder was sent a cashier's check for over the amount and then asked to send the overage to the scammer's Paypal account. Well, why would he need to send a check if he had a Paypal? 

CALL!! Do not rely solely on email and text, I know it is the new normal, but, you find out a lot by speaking to someone, you can gauge inflection in voice, they can't copy and paste knowledge on a phone call. I can tell typically if someone that emails me then will not call me and the conversation is ended when I ask them to call me. Besides, we live to talk about our dogs and puppies. They are our whole existence, our lives are centered around them, we WANT to tell you about them. A scammer would not be able to even touch our level of enthusiasm.

If you see a website, you will always typically find a Facebook or Instagram page attached to it with Breeders. You may find us posting our puppies in groups on Facebook, well, cuz it's a free form of advertising we can utilize. These groups, unfortunately are reft with scammers and backyard breeders. If you enquire about a puppy ask for their website, or their business page info. The scammers will have a fake account that was created not long ago and a weird name typically like "Adams John". They also create groups that will typically end in "for adoption" or "rehoming" and spam another persons post with it. They will rip you off and do every day. The backyard breeders will sell from their private accounts and will not have a business page. We that do have business pages will have obvious real history posting there. 

I will first say that if the price looks too good to be true for the puppy in the post it definatley is too good to be true. Your jumping on the post to get that beautiful puppy at half the price of what a reputable breeder would offer it as means one of two things- stolen picture scam or inexperienced breeder.  Breeders have all been an inexperienced breeder, and everyone has to start in the same place. However, those of us that have withstood the test of time did our research and found a mentor to enable us to produce healthy, well socialized with proven lineage. With the Covid puppy epidemic, many many puppy owners have decided they will breed to make extra money. Unfortunately, they never asked a veteran breeder how very time consuming, expensive and  phyiscally labor intensive it really is. This trend seems to be winding down a bit as a majority have decided it's too much work and stopped at one litter. We personally mentor several new breeders. It is imperative that a new breeder be honest about their level of experience and that their price be reflective of this. 

If you google a reputable breeder you will find an excessive of info on them as Google has no time limit. If I google Only Doodles, I see a few pages of where I have been for the last several years.

Ask to video chat. We video chat. 

Ask for a photo taken with us holding up a thumbs up or something only you and I know. A scammer will have only the pictures they have stolen. They cannot produce a pic of a puppy with me giving the "ok" sign. *To be noted- this cannot even be trusted anymore as the scammers have figured out how to photoshop a paper with your name onto a picture that they have stolen from a Breeder, so be careful with that one. I would suggest video chat. You can never fake a video chat. I hope!

But, first and foremost, CALL!!!

The only time you can really count on a puppy looking like it's parents is in a purebred dog such as a Bernese Mountain Dog. There is no variation in color scheme. They will all be tri no matter what. 

Because of the different colors of ancestral dogs going into making a doodle, color can only be predicted by understanding the genetics behind coat and what color you do not see that a dog carries.

Poodle and Riggs our great great f1 labradoodle grandparents, had black coated puppies, the majority are blue (when you look at their skin it looks blue!) and a few chocolates to make things interesting, Yes, they themselves are apricot and chocolate, but their genetic pairing created in for the majority the black puppy. The each carry a copy of the black gene and it is dominant in this pairing, therefore, black puppies. 

We kept their daughters, 2 black and one chocolate.

Lucy is a black F1 Labradoodle, now retired. Lucy was pitch black when born, with bluing . Lucy now has a darkish coat with coarse white hair sparsed through and has  rust colored highlights. We groom her twice a year and her shedding is almost nonexistent.

Her puppies were every color imaginable pretty much, black, chocolate, silver beige, cream,  and all those combinations with white which make the partis. Basically one end of color wheel to the other. She will only have a few black puppies.

Color of the parent in a doodle DOES NOT DETERMINE COLOR OF THEIR PROGENY!!

We breeders will refer to "what they carry". Meaning, what genetically their parents and their parents parents carry color wise.  Because we have raised generation of girl's we keep for mama's and we use a Daddy we preselect based on his and the mama's carry traits to match preferrably colorwise, genetically to produce colors we would like and feel buyers would like to have.

In the case of Ruby say and Archie, Black with rust furnishings and a tri parti - because of their trait carries, they produce, phantom, tri, tri chocolate, chocolate, black abstract and bi black and chocolate puppies. All because their genetic traits align to produce those colors in a litter. So, if our other current Stud, Chappie-who is red and white-were bred to Ruby their babies would be all black. All of them. 

In red puppies, simplisitally will produce cream, apricot, red and sometimes red parti if both parents carry at least one parti gene. However, breeding a red to say a black will 100% produce black as red is a masker for black and the black gene will be dominant 100% of the time. 

The RED....

The coveted color. The holy grail. The most difficult to produce and find. The rare of the rare. Just like in people with red hair, the percentage of red doodles is small. And, just like in people it's head turning and striking to see a red doodle. It's taken TEN years for us to be able to add red to our program. TEN. I know you do not realize how exciting this is for us. But, it's huge. Like winning the lottery huge for us. And, now you can win, too, as we have those reds by golly!

Why go against the grain? 

WHY NOT?!

Now, onto the MERLE!

So, this is a hot topic in the Poodle world, not so much in the Doodle World. And, was a much researched topic of interest for me personally. I will not bore anyone with the bazillion opinions of the Poodle purists (these are folks that breed poodles only to standard and have public disdain for Doodles (even though at least 20 of them come to mind quite quickly that breed Doodles on the down-low and or sell sperm from a stud to 100's of Doodle Breeders a year). Nor, will I bore you or flex a bit and explain this using the technical verbiage and blather on. In a nutshell, if genetics are done and any Breeder worth a salt does them, they will be sent a breed breakdown with the health panel and color carry info.  The long waged debate is is a Merle Poodle actually 100% Poodle. Now, a Parti, or fading Poodle are considered 100% Poodle, but, are disqualified from standard. Standard being Dog Show basically. However, I have had all 3 types, Merle, Parti and  fading gene. Guess what? When DNA panels are sent in and genetics are done, by a genetics expert, the results have come back on all 3 every single one are 100% Poodle AND, ANNNNDDD, SO ARE THEIR PARENTS AND GRANDPARENTS ETC, ETC, ETC.

Sooo, if the science states that a Merle Poodle is 100% Poodle. I am thinking it quite obvious I am going with the science. As well, when in Doodles (we truly care nothing about any other breed, honestly) the more unique the coat we can and do produce in genectically healthy puppies is the goal of every Doodle Breeder. They are beautiful, unique and definately one of a kind. Have you seen them? There is a reason the Merle Doodle is so sought after, a unique breed, the Doodle, with a unique coat- Merle. 

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As Garrett would say "First, 2 things..."

If a person calls a Breeder and asks if a puppy is potty trained or if they can leave a puppy with us until it is potty trained, immediately what we Breeders hear is that this person may not be best for not only our puppy, but, any puppy. Why? Because if a person wants someone else to do all the messy parts for them then logically any form of training would be neglected. The puppy is not viewed as a baby that learns as it grows and any inconvenience on this type of buyer part may result in this puppy living in a crate or outside, abused because it's not immediately acting like an adult dog or surrendered to a shelter. If you value your carpet more than the living breathing life that is a puppy, don't get a puppy or any pet for that matter. Period. 

Some Breeders are capitalizing on this by keeping and stating they are potty training for another month for $1000-$3000 extra. The kicker. They will not guarantee it, ever. But, they will take your money for it. Why no guarantee? They cannot. You are paying for air basically. Potty training is environmental. A puppy knows the voice, the words, the door they go out of, the area they potty and the Breeder know their signals of when they need to potty- circling most common. The minute they go to a new environment all that they know is not there. They cannot guarantee a puppy will not potty on your carpet. They are doing what we all do teaching a routine, and preying on ignorance to the matter. 

A good Breeder will tell you their signals, and routine, every 20 minutes to begin, use "Do you need to Potty" or "Outside" as they know these parts of a routine. A good Breeder will also not entertain these type of buyers or take money for something they cannot produce. 

Most asked question: how do we potty train a puppy?

Answer: You are not potty training that puppy, you are training yourself and family members to feed, water and take that puppy out on a consistent schedule. 

There will be accidents, they are babies. I had four sons. Their potty training was approached in the same manner. It took time. This will take time. Your consistency will determine how quickly this happens.

You are the one being trained! 

Repitition is everything and praise for positive behavior is key. Set your phone, smart watch, or like us old folk, an egg timer starting at 1/2 hour and take the puppy out every half hour and increase the time as they and their tiny bladder age. 

PUPPY PADS....NO NO NO!!!

Let me ask you this one question.....are you wanting to teach you puppy that it should find pottying in your house the most acceptable choice in where to potty? If this is not your goal then why would you, in essence, do so by using a pee pad? If you teach yourself to take them out consistently, are patient, expect accidents and accept they are babies and that their sole goal in life is to please you, you'll survive it!

** WE ARE PROFESSIONAL DOG BREEDERS NOT TRAINERS, OUR RECOMMENDATIONS HAVE BEEN BENEFICIAL TO OUR FAMILIES  OVER SEVERAL YEARS, WE RECOMMEND BAXTER & BELLA FOR IN HOME TRAINING OR FIND YOURSELF A LOCAL TRAINER BEYOND WHAT WE CAN PERSONALLY ASSIST WITH!

The majority of calls we receive after a puppy goes home are from first time dog owners.

Puppies are babies. 

You would not expect a human infant to not cry, not potty, not chew because they are teething, not want attention right when they want it.

All babies are work.

We have your puppy for a whole 8 weeks,  the last 2 of which they are finally doing actual dog stuff. Their whole lives, over a decade, are spent with you, it is your responsibility to ensure that life is wonderful. 

DO NOT BLAME THE PUPPY! THEY WAKE UP THEMSELVES EVERY DAY, IT'S HOW YOU REACT TO THEM BEING THEM THAT BECOMES AN ISSUE! TRAINING IS KEY, THE EARLIER THE BETTER!

Puppies are used to the only environment they know, sleeping in a puppy pile, chewing on their littermates, and have never been alone.

Stress, change in water, food and environment can and do cause tummy troubles. Soft stool IS NOT diarrhea. Diarrhea is watery and explosive! Puppies tummy trouble usually happens in the first week, and will settle within the first few weeks when they assimilate to their new environment. 

Rawhide, rope, thin plastic or rubber toys are not good for puppies OR dogs! They swallow pieces that their tummies cannot digest. Some may pass the parts and pieces, and then some will have to have them surgically removed! Research your toys! 

Excessive crating has proven to cause behavior problems and joint and bone growth issues. Dogs are social creatures and putting them in jail because you don't take time to train them will cause problems in the long run! Doodles are friendly and extremely intelligent. Make the time to teach them manners!

Please remember how their little lives change in a very short period of time, how confusing and scary it would be to have so many changes so quickly.

Thankfully, puppies are super adaptable. Be patient, and repetitious and consistent in your training.

It is imperative that puppies receive their full series of vaccinations after they go home and are not exposed to dog parks or unvaccinated and unknown animals prior to the final series at 16 weeks. Our babies health is of the upmost importance to us and we are entrusting you to keep them safe and healthy!

PLEASE CALL , EMAIL, MESSAGE US ON OUR FACEBOOK PAGE OR TEXT WITH ANY QUESTIONS, ANYTIME 

AND 

REMEMBER.....

If you don't spend the time to train them, don't blame them.....there are no bad puppies, even if they eat your shoes!!

PLEASE, PLEASE, I BEG OF YOU,  TRAINING FROM THE FIRST DAY IS INTREGAL TO EVERYONE'S HAPPINESS. IF YOU ARE A FIRST TIME PUPPY OWNER OR YOUR SKILLS ARE A LITTLE RUSTY, HIRE A LOCAL, EXPERIENCED TRAINER THAT WILL COME TO YOUR HOME AND WORK IN THE PUPPIES ENVIRONMENT. THE IN ITS OWN ENVIRONMENT IS KEY. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO BRUSH UP ON YOUR SKILLS OR ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE CHILDREN INTERESTED,  WE HAVE A PAGE COMPLETELY DEVOTED TO BAXTER & BELLA'S LIFETIME TRAINING PROGRAM. WE HAVE BEEN APPROACHED BY  NUMEROUS TRAINING PROGRAMS OVER THE YEARS AND THIS IS THE ONE AND ONLY, ONE AND ONLY! THAT WE FEEL COMFORTABLE AND CONFIDENT IN PARTNERING WITH. NEVER HAVE WE EVER ENCOUNTERED SUCH AN ALL ENCOMPASSING TRAINING PROGRAM THAT HELPS YOU, ACTUALLY WANTS TO INTERACT AND SEE YOU SUCCEED. YOU CAN USE CODE ONLYDOODLES AND RECEIVE A 25% OFF DISCOUNT, TOO!

Of course! 

Every week, once a week I  take pictures and post one group video on our Instagram and Facebook pages.

Please remember, we have people things to do just like and I too, need to buy groceries do my laundry, etc.

I will answer calls and email all day long, however, picture taking is a time consuming endeavor and we have several puppies, be considerate, please. 

I will treat you like you're special, because you are! You chose one of my babies!

Return the favor, though! We love pictures as they grow! We have a family group where our families post and we get almost daily texts with pics, videos and updates about our babies, we love them, send them!

Yes, within reason...

Stuff happens. 

If it is a case of weather causing shipping cancellations or an unfortunate event occurring out of your control, we will board your puppy up to 5 days at no cost to you, after such time a reasonable boarding fee will be required.

We are very nice people, however, this has worked against us a multitude of times in the past as we have kept puppies because of non emergency reasons. It is not alright, it is not ok, and we would never inconvenience or put anyone out in this manner ourselves. 

Also, the longer we have a puppy, the more it bonds to us, not fair, not fair at all to the puppy or us. 

Dogs are not like humans. 

We do as loving people love to humanize them. 

Sweater....Awesome!

Vitamins and healthy food and treats..........Yes!

Puppachino from Starbucks while wearing said sweater...........Heck Ya!!

In regard to heat cycles and skipping heats in particular it is expotentially harmful. They are not getting a break. 

Skipping a heat cycle in a dog without spaying her is dangerous, unethical and can literally be a death sentence. 

There is a lot of misinformation in the world about breeding back to back heats with a dog.  I am going to do my best to explain why it is in fact better for the females overall health to breed back to back heats.

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A large reason skipping heats is done is so that breeders are able to show a dog that has had enough time to get her figure back to top notch shape and have a chance to win a ribbon.  In fact some breeding dogs never start a career until the age of 3 and by then have gone through enough heats without becoming pregnant to already start damaging the uterus. This skipping of heats is driven by nothing other than financial reasoning. It has nothing at all to do with the health of the dog. They are in actuality doing the opposite of what is in the dog's best interest. 

 Dr. Claudia Orlandi Ph.D. (AKC's breeder of the year and author of The ABC's of Dog Breeding) states that scientific studies show that it is detrimental for bitches to skip heat cycles. Once you have begun to mate a bitch that you should NOT skip any heat cycles until she is completely finished breeding. A bitch is said to be "finished" breeding when her litter size is drastically decreased. The study involved following females that were bred every heat cycle and females that were bred every other heat cycle. After they were "finished" breeding, the bitches were spayed and their uterus dissected. Those showing most stress, and damage of the uterus were the females that were bred "every other" heat cycle. The rational that skipping heat cycles is harmful stems from the fact that with consecutive heat cycles there is no "flushing action" of the uterus, that normally occurs by having a litter of puppies.The female will go through Estrus no matter if she is bred or not and by breeding a healthy bitch back to back,can lessen the chances of the female experiencing pyometra, infections and false pregnancies. The choice to breed or not, should be contingent upon the goals the breeder has and for sure the mental and physical health of the female, above all else. The important information to take away from this study, is that a breeder with healthy females, does have "choices". We choose to feed them quality food. We choose to provide prenatal and post natal care. We choose to supplement, just as you would a pregnant human. 

​The common misconception is that an ethical breeder should make a bitch skip at least on heat cycle between two pregnancies.  That way, the dog breeder lets her body rest and recover from the first pregnancy.

Canine reproduction specialists such as Dr.  Hutchison have long concluded the opposite is true.  Experts state, once a female is fertile ( usually from the second heat, depending on the breed of the dog )  she should be bred at every heat until she is done.   As you read earlier,  a bitch is done when you see a sharp decrease in litter size or when you decide for any other reason that she will not be bred any longer.

Though we retire in the end of the 3rd and beginning of the 4th year of age typically.